The Search for the Best Boxed Wine Week 9

The Back Story:

The boxed wine we’re covering this week, Seven by Bodegas Osbourne, is a fascinating study in terroir and structure. We’re familiar with that famous French / Aussie blend, GSM, comprised of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and the qualities that each component brings to the table. Syrah is the big, meaty, aggressive wine, contributing massive tannins and dark fruits to the wine. Mourvèdre, with its delayed ripening, brings a higher acidity and more nuanced structure to the mix. Grenache, a lighter, sweeter, and soft wine, craves the structure and tannins the other two provide. It’s an example of a basic, well-reasoned and -tested formula for a successful blend.

If GSM is an algebra equation, Seven is calculus integration. Though not nearly as staggering as the Big House Red’s array of varietals, this wine still has an extensive list of varietals to sift through. It consists of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% Shiraz, 8% Tempranillo, 8% Garnacha (Grenache), 8% Petit Verdot, and 8% Graciano.

The wine begins with the potent structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz, and the dry, red fruit profile these grapes bring to the table are tempered by the earthiness and softness of Spanish stalwarts Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano. These grapes all take on the terroir of Spain incredibly well, and the combination of aggressive tannins in the big reds, softer, gentler profile of the Grenache and Tempranillo, and high acidity of the Petit Verdot and Graciano should make for an interesting experience.

The Results:

Seven wine boxThe appearance of the wine is a deep red with a slight ruby tint and a pure translucency. It appears to have an average viscosity.

The nose of the wine is a bit hot, featuring mainly red-fruit and spice with a distinct milk chocolate scent and a note of leather. Smells rather like a cordial cherry.

The mouth feel of the wine is fairly medium-bodied, very smooth. The tannins are palpable but not very prominent. The alcohol is very detectable here, lending the wine its light and airy smoothness.

The flavor of the wine is, like the nose, a simple red-fruit and spice affair. There are simple, broad flavors of cherry and cinnamon. It’s slightly earthy, leathery, with a metallic tinge, and there is a detectable oak. The finish is medium, a bit shorter than expected, accompanied by chocolate. There’s a bit of sweetness offsetting a surprisingly tame tannic profile. It has a very good balance, though the alcohol comes through quite a bit, especially on the finish.

For the Casual Drinker:

This is a nice, tame, simple red wine with a very agreeable flavor profile. Not too big, not too tannic, not too sweet, this is a crowd-pleaser. The chocolate and cherry flavors will suit most palates, and the lack of “chewy” tannins should make this at least acceptable to white wine drinkers. It’s a bit tame, so keep it away from overly spicy meals, especially tomato-based soups and sauces. Most red meat, though, is fair game.

The Conclusion:

The massive varietal blend equals out to a relatively simple fruit- and chocolate-centric wine. For a red wine, especially boxed, this is pretty good. 6/10

Current Line-up:

Bodegas Osbourne Seven NV

  • Week 0 – 6/10 – Red-fruit, spicy, slightly earthy. Bit imbalance in the alcohol. Very smooth and well-rounded.

Silver Birch Sauvignon Blanc 2009

  • Week 0 – 6/10 – Tropical, citrus, herbal flavors and nose. Slightly imbalanced acidity and alcohol.
  • Week 1 – 6/10 – Very similar to last week. Possibly

Double Dog Dare Chardonnay, California NV

  • Week 0 – 3/10 – Very off-putting nose, dull, listless color, rough mouth feel, apple and oak flavor, imbalanced acidity.
  • Week 1 – 2/10 – Flavor and balance have taken a dive. The chemical from the nose is noticeable on the flavor
  • Week 2 – 2/10 – Consistent from the last week. Weak flavor and nose, imbalance.

Big House Red, California 2008

  • Week 0 – 7/10 – Lean, light texture, floral and red-fruit flavors, good balance, slightly hot nose, medium finish
  • Week 1 – 6/10 – Flavor has deteriorated a bit, and there’s a harshness that I possibly didn’t detect before
  • Week 2 – 5/10 – Harshness has intensified. The flavors are still good, just slowly fading.
  • Week 3 – 4/10 – Alcohol is detectable in the mouthfeel, finish, and nose. Flavor is a bit rougher.

Wine Cube California Vintner’s Red Blend 2008

  • Week 0 – 3/10 – Weak structure, heavy oak nose, red-fruit profile, heavy vanilla oak flavor, light-bodied, very short finish.
  • Week 1 – 3/10 – Exactly the same as before. Somehow, and I don’t know how, this sweet vanilla red wine manages to be drinkable.
  • Week 2 – 3/10 – Nose is a little bit off, but the flavor is still the same as before.
  • Week 3 – 3/10 – Same flavor, just a bit weaker. Odd buttered popcorn scent on the nose now.
  • Week 4 – 3/10 – Alcohol is becoming prominent on the nose and flavor. Other than that, it’s holding up well

Retired Line-up:

Pinot Evil Pinot Noir NV

  • Week 0 – 5/10 – Slightly imbalanced acidity, balanced alcohol, earthy nose, red fruit flavor, short finish, slight metallic undertaste.
  • Week 1 – 5/10 – Still as fresh as when it was opened. Similar earthiness, red fruits, short finish, slightly imbalanced acidity.
  • Week 2 – 5/10 – Still tasting pretty fresh. Still balanced. Flavor tastes on par with previous tastings.
  • Week 3 – 4/10 – Flavor is beginning to diminish, causing the alcohol flavor and metallic taste to come through more.
  • Week 4 – 4/10 – Holding steady from last week. Still a slightly off flavor, but it hasn’t diminished since.
  • Week 5 – 4/10 – Nose is a bit more harsh. Cherry flavor is strangely more prominent.
  • Average score: 4.5/10. Length of stay = 5 weeks. Final score is 5/10. I would completely recommend this wine as a stalwart backup for any occasion as well as a decent sipper on its on right.

Monthaven Central Coast Chardonnay 2008

  • Week 0 – 5/10 – Imbalanced (high) acidity, balanced alcohol, apple, tropical, oaky flavors and nose, medium-bodied, way too bitter finish.
  • Week 1 – 5/10 – Similar balance in acidity and alcohol, similar flavors and nose, similar bitter finish
  • Week 2 – 5/10 – Starting to taste a bit more imbalanced, flavors and nose have faded slightly, finish is less bitter
  • Week 3 – 4/10 – Odd caramel scent on the nose. Flavor has deteriorated and the balance is still off.
  • Week 4 – 3/10 – Flavor has deteriorated further. Alcohol flavor is starting to take a prominent feature.
  • Week 5 – 3/10 – Held steady for the final week. Still drinkable, and the flavor’s still partially there.
  • Average score: 4.2/10. Length of stay = 5 weeks. Final score is 5/10. Though it didn’t finish strongly, this boxed wine is good for a few weeks of very tasty drinking.

Bota Box Shiraz California 2006

  • Week 0 – 3/10 – Imbalanced (high) acidity, imbalanced (high) alcohol, smooth texture, black fruits, very hot nose
  • Week 1 – 3/10 – Imbalanced acidity and alcohol, smooth texture, no loss in flavor, hot nose, maybe a bit more bitter finish
  • Week 2 – 3/10 – Still imbalanced, same texture, flavor, and nose. Holding its meager flavor well.
  • Week 3 – 3/10 – There’s something a little off on the flavor, but it’s not enough to drop the score. Still mostly the same.
  • Week 4 – 2/10 – Tastes very soft now, like the structure is beginning to deteriorate. Weak flavor, alcohol is strangely no longer prominent in the flavor
  • Week 5 – 2/10 – The flavor profile is very different. Very soft, very meek, hardly representative of the big fruit that preceded it.
  • Average score: 2.6/10. Length of stay = 5 weeks. Final score is 3/10. Had a pretty decent stay, though it came from humble beginnings. If nothing else, you’ve got over a month to drink it.

Black Box Chardonnay Monterey 2008

  • Week 0 – 4/10 – Imbalanced (high) acidity, balanced alcohol, briny, weak texture, slightly sour, fruit-forward, weak nose
  • Week 1 – 3/10 – Lost nothing on the nose, lost some flavor, still very imbalanced acidity, similar mouth feel, texture, increased sourness
  • Week 2 – 2/10 – Nose and flavor are starting to get musty, still overly acidic, beginning to taste flat, metallic, alcohol flavor still balanced
  • Week 3 – 1/10 – Nose and flavor lost distinguishing characteristics. Taste mostly of acid and alcohol. Flavor is officially wince-inducing. Consider this guy retired.
  • Average score: 2.5/10. Length of stay = 3 weeks. Final score is 2/10. Started off all right, but deteriorated too quickly to make it a contender for the best boxed wine.

Washington Hills Merlot NV

  • Week 0 – 3/10 – Imbalanced (high) alcohol, decent acidity, red fruit, blueberry, oaky flavors and nose, short finish.
  • Week 1 – 3/10 – Still hot on the tongue, balanced acidity, flavors are all holding true. Nose hasn’t changed.
  • Week 2 – 3/10 – Nose and flavor are still the same, mediocre but not any worse.
  • Week 3 – 2/10 – A slightly unusual, chemical flavor is starting to come forward. It’s really affecting the flavor.
  • Week 4 – 0/10 – Nose consists entirely of alcohol now. Flavor is unrecognizable. This guy is retired.
  • Average score: 2.2/10. Length of stay = 4 weeks. Final score is 1/10. Started poorly, and the wine was essentially undrinkable after 3 weeks. Not a good trait in a boxed wine.

Are You Sure This Was Pressed from Grapes?

The Back Story:

When I go shopping for wine, I usually have one of two goals; I either want to luck out with a bargain wine, or I’m actively searching for the next big thing. On this particular trip, I had bargains on the brain. This particular wine was purchased in a thirteen-bottle glut, meaning it sort of got lost in the shuffle. Honestly, I think the only reason I picked it up was I had been talking about Tempranillo on Twitter the day before.

The wine maker has no online presence, making the search for verifiable knowledge of this wine rather futile. Here’s what I can tell you about the 2008 Campos Reales La Mancha Tempranillo: it’s a 2008 vintage, it’s from Spain, and I’m not entirely sure it was pressed from grapes.

Campos Reales Tempranillo

Campos Reales Tempranillo label (from http://www.wine.com)

The Results:

The appearance of the wine was a deep ruby, almost entirely opaque, with an average viscosity. The swirl suggested a thin texture.

The nose of the wine was initially fruity, with an almost sickeningly sweet combination of black cherry and red delicious apple. After the first initial sniff, though, tobacco came forward and dominated my senses. I could hardly smell anything else once I detected that.

The mouth feel of the wine was nothing special. The texture was a little thin and had very little character.

The flavor of the wine was tobacco. What else? Tobacco, tobacco, TOBACCO. Drinking this wine was like smoking a pipe; it was sweet and smoky. There was a hint of blackberry flavor, and it was rather tannic, but nothing else came forward. The acidity also seemed to me to be a little low. The finish, as with the initial taste and the mid-palate, was tobacco.

For the Casual Drinker:

I would not call this an easy-drinking wine. The overwhelming tobacco taste is certainly an acquired one and not one that you would expect to dominate a wine. After a half a glass it started to sit rather heavily on my stomach, and I had to calm it down with a bitter ale. It’s cheap enough that, if you’re in the mood for something different, you could give it a shot, but I definitely would say it’s not for everyone.

The Conclusion:

As impressed as I was with the unique flavor and low price point, drinking it felt like a dessert wine. It was strong and sweet, good for a half a glass, but anything more than that just didn’t sit well. I’ve read several reviews online that only attributed a minor tobacco finish to the wine, giving it an otherwise red-fruit characterization, so you might not be attuned to the tobacco the same way I was. As I tasted it, though, I’d be hard-pressed to entirely recommend this wine. At just under $8 for a bottle, it’s merely an experiment worth attempting. 5/10

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